Pocket for knitted garments



April 30,1929. w. c. YUND 1,711,438

POCKET FOR KNITTED GARMENTS Filed Oct. 8, 1928 2 Sheets-Sheet l April 30, 1929. w. c. YUND POCKET FOR KNITTED-GARMENTS 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed Oct Guam Patented Apr. 30, 1929.

yWALTER C. YUND, OF AMSTERDAM, NEW YORK.

POCKET FOR MITTED GAR/MENTS'.

Application filed October 8, 1928; Serial No. 311,188.

This invention relates to a pocket construction adapted particularly for knitted gare ments, such as sweaters, knit coats, and the like, and also to the method of formingsuch pocket construction. The knitted cloth in such garments is generally thick and heavy` and more or less difliculty exists in applying` pockets thereto so as to make a strong as well as a smooth and neat construction.l Various methods are in use for applying pockets to garments of this kind, but as a rule they are not entirely satisfactory and involve considerable handwerk in applying'thepocket or the parts of the `pochette the material of the garpensive. Also the pockets as previously made 4 are more or less elastic around the opening thereof so that they soon sag or stretch out of shape.

The present invention aims to provide a simple method by which pockets 'he formed in a garment of that kind and in which the mouth of the pocket or opening` has no thick or bulky seams around the same and which will not sag or stretch out of shape.

A further object is to provide a pocket construction in the formation of which the operations may be lcarried on practically entirely by machinery without the use of any handwerk.r

`A still further object is to provide a pocket construction which is neat in appearance and the opening to which is so formed as te re-` sist pulls uor' strains tending to tear or draw the saine out of shape. p l f Various other objects and advantages of the invention will be apparent-from the following specification taken in connection with the accompanying drawings, in which:

f Figure 1 is a plan view illustrating the first stage in forming the new pocket construction 'F i gui-e 2 is avertical section on the line 2 2 Of Fiel; i

Figure 3 is a plan View illustrating a fur-V ther stage in the formation of the improved Pocket; f

Figure i i-4i of Fig. 3

Figure 5 is a plan view illustrating .a still i further stage inthe formation of the iin-* proved pocket g `i `igure G is a yvertical sectional View on the 'line 6 6 of Fig. 5;

Figures 7 and Sfillustrate further stages in the formation of the pocket f v v i Figure 9 is a plan view looking toward the ment, thus making the operation slow and eX- respective edges of a vertical section on the line front face of the garment and illustrating a still further stage in making the pocket;

Figure 10 is a rear view illustrating the condition of the various parts at the stage illustrated in Fig'. 9;

Figure l1 is a plan view of the rear faceof the garment showing the appearance of theA completed pocket; and Y Figure l2 is van enlarged vertical sectional View substantially 11 yand showing the completed pocket construction. i

.Referring to the drawings indetail by meansof the reference characters thereon,v 10 indicates-a portion of the garment cloth or material in which the pocket is formed, the

front face orouter side of the garment cloth appearing in this view. l Applied to the front face of the garment cloth l0 is an upper pocket portion 11 and a lower pocket portion l2, both preferably formed of knitted or other suitx able material.

As illustrated in the drawinos, the vpocket i port-ions 11 and 12 are preferably made of separate pieces, and first Y temporarily fastened to the front face lof the garment `cloth as by means of pins P, the lower edge of the portion l1 and the upper edge of the portion 12 being preferably fiat and unfolded and ai'` f ranged close to eachother. The lower edge of the portion 11 and the upper edge of the por-` tion 12' each .has applied thereto a strip of` strong and-relatively inelastic tape 11G-and l2 respectively, this tape being secured to the l ythe pocket portions by means of stitching' lil) and l2" respectively. rlfhe strips of `tape maybe, are, sewed to the edges of the pocketzportions lietoie said portions are placed against the front face of the garment. Theedgcso'f the pocket lportions 11 Vand 12 to which the tape .is applied will Vhereinafter be termedfthe taped, edges.

Afterthe pocket portions 1lV and `l2 have been applied ato the fr ont face'of the garment material witli their taped edges adiacent each other, a lin'e of throughand-throughstitching l1 is appli-'ed to the lower edge ofthe upper portion 11,1and a similar line of stitching 12C is applied to the upper edge of thelower portion 12, one of these lines of stitching eX- tending through the tape'lla, thev underlying edge of the portion 1l, and the clothVK of the garment, and the other extending"through.the 'tape lQZTthefupper edge of thesportion12', Y and the cloth of the garn'ient..l "Preferably on the line 12-12 of Fig.`

and preferably the through-and-through lines of stitching 11c and 12c are connected at their ends by transverse lines of stitching indicated at 13 in Fig. 3. By this means the pocket portions 11 and 12 are secured to the `iront tace of the garment material 10.

11s the neXt step in the operation, the material of the garment is slit between the taped edges of the pocket portions 11 and 12, this slit, which is designated by the numeral 141, extending substantially the entire width oi t pocket portions but terminating slightly short of the transverse stitching The condition oil the various parts at this stage of the operation is illustrated particularly in 5 and 6 which show the slit 141- slightly opened.

is the next stage in the operation, the joint l between the upper pocket portion 11 and the cloth of the garment and the'joint between the lower pocket portion 12 and the cloth or" the garment are overstitched, as illustrated at 15, in a manner well-known in the art. For this purpose the pocketportions 11 and 12 are turned into substantially the same plane as the plane of the cloth of the garment, and the overseaming is applied across the top and bot-tom and around the edges of the slit 11. This overseaming'is applied for the purpose of strengthening' the joint between the pocket portions and the body of the garment and also for the purpose of covering up the raw edges so as to prevent any unraveling of the cloth and produce a more finished appearance. y

Figure 'i' illustrates the parts after such overseaming operation has taken place and the pocket portions 11 and 12 again turned into position parallel with the cloth'of the garment. In this ligure the parts oi' the structure adjacent the slit are somewhat opened up to make the illustration more clear. l.

The nent step in the operation consists in applying a strip of strong and relatively inelastic braid to the joint between the upper pocket portion 11 and the cloth of the garment and also to the joint between the lower pocket portion 12 and the cleth o'' the niarment. Such braid is illus rated at 16 in Fig- Y ure 8 and particularly in Figure 9. This braid 16 extends around the entire slit or V iocket o eninO' as clearli a) ears from FiO'- D7 2D ure 9, one part oi' said braid extending around the upperV portionv or the poclretopening and another part extending around the lower portion thereof. The braid 16 is secured in place by tlirough-and-through stitching 16a which extends through the braid, the parts of joint beneath the same and also preferably through the adjacent overstitching 15.

After the various operations above de vscribed have been performed, the pocket portions 11'r and 12V are forced through the slit or opening 14 to the rearside of the garment material. To further explain, it will be front or outer side of the garment cloth, and

Figure 9 shows the parts after the portions 11 and 12 have been forced through the opening 14 to the rear side oi' the garment cloth. It will be seen that, when the pocket portions 11 and 12 are thus forced 'through the slit 14 and drawn down tightly, the upper and lower strips oi braid 16 will appear en the iront side of the garment cloth. Vln other words, Figure 9 shows the iront i'ace of the garment material and with the braid 16 as it appears extending around the poclret opening. Figure 10 shows the rear iace of the garment at this stage with the overseaming on the upper' side oi' the slit or pocket opening appearing therein, the overseaming on the lower side of this opening being -covered by the pocket portion 11.

After the poclret portions 11 and 12 have been forced through the slit or opening and drawn down into position, such portions are sewed together around their edges as illustrated at 17. to form the complete pocket. lhe complete poclret as viewed from the rear oi the garment is illustrated in Figure 11.

Also Figure 12 illustrates the various parts after the pocket has been finished. From this ligure it will be noted that the lower pocket portion 12 has been drawn rearwardly through the pocket opening and downwardly and forms the iront partV of the pocket. For the sake of clearness in defining the structure, theY right-hand face of the pocket portion 12 as it appears in VFigure 12 will be designated as the rear face and is indicated at R in Figure 12. Also, as shown in Figure 12, the upper pocket portion 11 has been drawn rearwardly and downwardly and forms the rear portion or the completed pocket. hand face of the portion11 as it appears in Figure 12 willv hereafter be designated as the iront tace'oi.2 this pocket portion and is designated by the letter F in said figure. Also in For the salte oi clearness the leit` lll) of braid 16 appears'on the iront oit the garment'and that the lower strip or braid 16 also l appears on the 'iront oi the garment just inside of thepoclret. The pocket portion 12 is preferablyV made `oi' such length that when drawn inwardly and downwardly,v it will pull the lower portion oil the braid 16 somewhat inside ofA the pocket opening; serves to give the pocket a neat vappearance but is, oft course, not absolutely essential.

` Tt will be-noted particularly from Figures 9 and 10 that the ends et the braid 16 and the ends of the tapes 11a and 12a are free, and in sewing the edges ot the pockets together by the seaming 1"?,` asillustrated in Figure 11` it is preferred to sew in such tree ends of. the braid and tapes; Aliso it is desrablethat This *ment cloth an upper or rear pocketI portion.

the ends of the pocket opening be strength# ened by what is generally known as butt stitching, which is illustrated at 18 in Figure 1l, such butt stitching being a throughand-through stitching which serves to turther strengthen the corners ror ends of the pocket. Y

From the foregoing, it will be seen that a pocket produced in the manner described will include a piece of strengthening tape eX- tending across the top and `bottom of the pocket opening. This serves to make the pocket opening practically inelastic so that it will not stretch out of shape. Also `the braid which is applied around the pocket opening will further contribute toward this end. In fact, the braid, which is very strong and inelastic, will alone serve `the purpose of greatly strengthening the pocket ,opening even in the absence ot the tape which is embodied in the seam around the pocket opening. Y Changes may obviously be made in the details ont theconstruction heretofore,described, and the various steps may be carried out in ya somewhat different order than`that described, and it is therefore to be understood that the invention is not limited to the precise structure disclosed nor to the precise order ot steps set forth.

Having thus described the invention, what .is claimed as new Vand desired flat upon the front orouter lace of t-he garand a separate lower or front pocket portion Cil with the lower edge of said upper portion arranged in proximity to the upper edge oi' said lower portion, the adjacent edges of said,v upper and lower pocket portions eaclrbeing lat and unfolded and each having a strip of strong relatively inelastic y*tape material eX-g tending along the same, -sewing said yupper and lower pocketportions to the cloth of the garn'ient by lines of t-lirough-and'through stitching extending across the lower edge oit said upper portion and the upper edgeot said lower portion andthrough thetape material,l pocket material and the garment cloth, forming a` slit in said garment clothbetween the adjacent edges oi said pocket portions, forcing said pocket poitions through said slit, and securing the'edges of saidportions together to form the pocket.

2. The method ot forming a pocketk in a knitted garmentwhich consists in taking two separate portions ot pocket forming material each having a hat unfolded edge, applying a strong relatively inelastic strip of tape material to the flat edge of each of said portions, placingA said pocket portions tlat against the outer or front face of the garment cloth with the taped edges thereof adjacent each other, sewing each of said pocket forming portions to the garmentmaterial by a line of through-and-througli stitches exlforcing said pocket forming portions through Y said slit and securing the et ges oit said portionstogetherto form the pocket.

8. The method ot forming ka pocket in a garment which consists in applying pocket forming material to the front face ot the garinent,'said material comprising upper and lower pocket forming portions, applying two separated rows ot stitching extending" transversely ot said pocket forming portions and securing the same to thev garment material, cutting a slit through said garment material between said two rows of stitches, said rows of stitches being substantially parallel with said slit, sewing a strip of braid' in the joint between the front face of the upper pocket torming portion and the front side ot the garment material, forcing said Vpocket forming portions through said slit and sewing the same together at the edges to torni the pocket. c

4. The method of forming a pocket in a garment which consists in applying pocket jtorming material tol the front :tace ofthe# garment, said material comprising upper and lower pocket forming portions, applying two separated rows of stitching extending transversely'of said pocket forming portions and securing the same to the garmentmaterial,

cutting aslit through said garment material between said two rows of stitches, said rows of stitches beingsubstantially parallel with said-slit, sewing a. strip of braid in the joint between the front facey of the upper pocket torn'iing portion andthe lrontside of the garment material, sewing a strip of braid in the jointbetween the rear tace-oft' thebottom pocket iormingportion and the'ifront tace oft the garment material., forcing said pocket forming portions through said slitand sewing the same togetherfat the edges to form the pocket 'l V5. The method of vforming a pocket in a garment whichk consists in taking two sepa rate portions of pocket forming material, applying a relatively inelastic strip of tape material to one edgeoit' each of said portions, placing saidportions against the outer or front tace ofthe' garment cloth with the taped'edges thereof adjacent each other, sewing each of said pocket forming portions to` the garment material by a line'ot throughand-through stitches extending through said tape material, said pocket forming material and garment materia'hsaid line of stitches` extending substantially parallel to the taped llO edges of said pocket forming port-ions, cutting` a slit through the garment cloth between said taped edges ot the pocket forming portions, sewing a strip of braid in the joint between the 'front face ot the upper pocket forming portion'and the front side oit the garment material, forcing said pocket torming` portions through said slit and securing the edges ot said portions together to form the pocket.

(i. The method oi' tormil'ig a pocket in a garment which consists in taking two separate portions ot pocket forming material, applying a relatively inelastic strip of tape ma 'erial to one edge of each of saidportions, l'ilacing said portions against the out-er or i' ront face of the garment cloth with the taped edges thereof adjacent each other, sewing each oi: said pocket 'forming portions to the garment material by a line ot through-andthrough stitches extending lthrough said tape material, said pocket iorn'iing material and garment material, said line of stitches extendingrsubstantially parallel to the taped edges ot' said pocket forming portions,` cutting a slit through the garment cloth between said taped edges of the pocket forming portions, sewing a strip of braid in the joint between the front face of the upper pocket forming portion and the front side ot the garment material, sewing a strip of braid in the joint between the rear face of thevbottom pocketV forming portion and the front face of the garment material, forcing said pocket torrm ing portions through said slit and securing the edges of said portions together to :torni the pocket.

7. The herein described pocket construction for garments comprising in combination with the cloth of the garment having a slit therein, the upper and lower edges of which are turned inwardly or rearwardly, a rear pocket port-ion having its upper edge turned rearwardly and positioned against the inturned upper edge of said slit and secured thereto by throiigh-and-through stitching, a

stri oi relativel non-elastic braid sewed in the front side of the jointbetwe'en said upper inturn'ed edge of said slit andthe upper inturned edge of saidrear pocket portion, a front pocket portion having its upper edge turned forwardly and abutting the inturned lower edge of said slit, said last named edges being secured together by through-and'- thereto 'by through-antl-through stitching, a

strip oit relatively non-elastic braid sewed in the trontside oiA the oint between said upper inturned edge of said slit and the upper' iuturned edge oi said rear pochet portion, a 'liront pocket portion having its upper" edge turned.forwardly and abutting the intln'ned lower edge of said slit, said last named edges being sewed together by through-and-tln'ough stitches.

9. The herein described pocket constructionr for garments, comprising in combination with the cloth of the garment having a `slit. therein, the upper and lower edges of which are turned inwardly, a rear pocket portion having its upper end turned inwardly and positioned against the inturned upper edge ot said slit, a` re-entorcing strip ypositioned on the rear side of the upper edge of said rear pocket portion, through-and- 'through stitches securing together said strip,

said inturned upper edge of the rear pocket portion and the inturned upper edge of theV slit, a iront pocket portion having its upper edge turned forwardly and abutting the inturned lower edge of said slit, a re-enforcing strip positioned on the upper edge of said iront pocket portion and on the side thereof away 'from the inturned lower edge of said slit, throughand-through stitches securing togetherfsaid strip, said outwardly turned upper edge-ot the i'ront pocketportion' and the inturned lower, edge ot' said slit, a strip oivbraid sewed into the joint between the 'front edge ot said rear pocket portion and the iront tace ot the garment, anda strip of braid secured in thefjointbetween the rear tace oif said 'trent pocket portion and the front face of the garment.

ln testimony whereof I hereunto aiix my.

signature.

lWALTER YUND. 

